Bowron Lakes Adventure
- Written by Ian Mitchell
Photograph by A. Stewart The Isaac River portage
No-one told us it would be like this. Sandbars, sweepers, and deadheads decorated with bits of canoes clinging to them littered the twisty fast waters of the Cariboo River. This part of the canoe trip was supposed to be flat water, not the obstacle course in front of us. There wasn’t any choice; we had to go through it. The nearest road was still four days away.
Four days previously, 13 people had launched on a nine day canoe trip. Bowron Lakes is a world renowned canoe circuit in the BC interior — one of the top 10 worldwide. Ahead of us was 116 kilometers of wilderness canoeing with portages, wildlife, spectacular scenery and no outside support.
The first half of the trip wasn’t unusual. A few portages carrying way too much gear and food; hard rain one day, stiff winds another. Happily the wind turned into a tail wind, so we tied the canoes together and threw up the tarp sails. As the wind pushed us along we relaxed. Nothing to do except laugh, eat GORP, watch the ospreys and steer occasionally by dipping a paddle in the water.
Bear Baggin’ It
Visitors to Bowron Lakes are warned they MUST use the metal bear-proof caches provided at every campsite to store any items with any odour that could attract bears. This includes all food and garbage, as well as cooking equipment and toiletry items. Bears that learn to associate food with people become known as “problem bears”. Park rangers may be forced to destroy food-conditioned bears when they become aggressive. Caches are located in each camping area and at most portages. This regulation is strongly enforced.
If you are camping in other wilderness places without bear caches, it is wise to put all your food, garbage and toiletries into a resealable bag (to reduce odour), then into a strong compression sack or bag and hang it in a tree. Look for a tree 100 metres away from your campsite with a strong branch five to six metres in the air. Throw a rope over it, and suspend your bear bag. It should be at least three to four metres off the ground, two metres below the branch and three metres out from the tree trunk. Tie it off securely. This should be done every time you leave the campsite, not just at night. Bears, raccoons, mice, squirrels and chipmunks all find our food irresistible.
We had expected rapids on day 5, several kilometers of class 1 or 2 white water. After portaging the gear, everyone took a run at working through the white water. Water splashing in our faces, we dropped through the rapids. What a rush! All the flat water paddling and training paid off, with only two getting wet. Crossing a small lake with four moose calmly grazing the shallow waters near the shore, we started down the Cariboo River, unaware of what was ahead.
Water splashing in our faces, we dropped through the rapids. What a rush!
Six canoes need space to maneuver, and as we negotiated through the downed trees and sandbars, we got spread out. The last canoe in the procession got caught sideways on a deadhead, rolled and dumped paddlers and gear into the rushing water. Only the kayaker saw what had happened, and he swiftly pulled the two paddlers onto the shore. Floating gear was retrieved with much wading in the cold water or by using the kayak to retrieve it as it wedged itself against trees and in eddies.
Photograph by J. MakelaThe River Rapids
By then the others in the group had realized that a canoe and kayak were missing. One canoe stayed behind at the river delta to get a fire going and watch for the late-comers. The rest paddled to the campsite to set up for the evening, while one canoe paddled further up the lake to the emergency phone. Radios coordinated, the rangers were primed for a rescue. But wait; here came the kayak around the last bend of the river. “That campfire smoke hanging in the air was a most welcoming sight”, said one of the crew. The tired three were warmed up and fed, and the remaining stretch of water was paddled under an amazing panorama of stars – the perfect punctuation for the events of the day.
The next day everyone reviewed the events and determined steps to take to avoid such a fate again. We needed to make up 21 kilometres today in order to get back on schedule. Luckily, Day 6 was amazingly calm with bright sun. It was like paddling on a mirror with beautiful scenery everywhere you looked. Did you know that loons sound like float-planes as they pound their wings into the water getting airborne? Neither did we, until one passed within meters of our bow.
Photograph by A. Stewart
Moose at McLeary Lake
Day 7 was a scheduled day of rest. Imagine opening your tent fly to see deer walking through your campsite in the early morning mist. The fishing derby continued; we all took a short paddle/hike to see Cariboo Falls. Water drops 24 metres to form this spectacular falls. It’s enough to take your breath away.
Bowron Lake has a reputation for high winds, waves and quick storms. Sure enough, on the last day of paddling, as we entered the lake a storm front started to build behind us. It’s amazing how your weather sense becomes tuned up after being outdoors for an extended amount of time. A quick safety briefing, (keep together, close to the shore, keep an eye on each other) and off we paddled. True to its reputation, the waves were the largest yet. Steady and sure we pushed on. Hot showers, real beds and meals we didn’t have to hydrate waited at the other end of the lake. Everyone made it, dry and safe.
After a wonderful meal that we didn’t cook, it was pointed out to the seven Scouts (ages 11 – 14) that they had just completed the same camping trip their leaders had unanimously called the toughest, longest and most rewarding of their lives. With high fives all around, everyone trooped off to bed, proud of accomplishing the Bowron Lakes Circuit.
This trip was completed by the 9th Surdel Scout Troop from Vancouver, BC. If you like challenging paddles, beautiful mountain scenery, and a world class experience, they highly recommend the Bowron Lakes Circuit.
To find out more about Scouting’s outdoor adventurous programs, visit www.scouts.ca or call 1 888 Scouts Now.
Photograph by H. ColierA calm moment
